
Product care
Clothes should be worn. Not continuously washed.
Every piece is made by hand and checked by us personally before it leaves the atelier. Good care begins long before the washing machine: air your clothes between wears, brush them, steam them, remove small marks locally and let the fibres recover. Wash when necessary — not automatically.
Less heat, less friction and less detergent keep colour, surface, shape and fibre for considerably longer.
Dye, finishing, lining, interfacing and trims matter as much as the fibre — two garments of the same fibre can need completely different care.
The Atelier rules
- 30°C is our maximum for most washable garments. Heat causes shrinkage, colour loss and wear.
- Use less detergent than you think. A good liquid detergent — no bleach, optical brighteners or fabric softener.
- Turn dark, printed and delicate pieces inside out.
- Close zips, hooks and buttons. Empty pockets.
- Wash similar colours together, and don't overfill the machine.
- Valuable pieces go in a laundry bag.
- Avoid the tumble dryer. Nothing ages clothes faster. Air dry.
- Never hang wet knitwear. Dry it flat.
Materials
Find the material of your piece. It is written on the product page and on the care label inside the garment.
Tsuri knit / Loopwheel
Our Tsuri knit is made in Osaka on century-old loopwheel machines, at about one metre per hour. The yarn is never stretched, which is where its softness comes from. Preserve that character rather than cleaning it aggressively.
Wash
- 30°C maximum, gentle cycle, about 600 rpm.
- Inside out, with similar colours and a little mild liquid detergent.
- Very dark or garment-dyed pieces: wash separately the first few times.
- No bleach. No fabric softener.
Dry
- Never tumble dry.
- Take it out of the machine straight away and reshape while damp.
- Heavy pieces dry flat. Lighter pieces can be hung once most of the water is gone.
- Away from radiators and direct sun.
Finish
- Steam from the inside.
- If you iron, use moderate heat and don't press the surface flat.
A little natural shrinkage and change in the fabric is part of an authentic knitted cotton.
Cotton
Cotton is strong. The garment made from it may not be. A jersey T-shirt, a garment-dyed shirt and a tailored cotton jacket should never automatically get the same treatment.
Wash
- 30°C, gentle cycle, 600–800 rpm.
- Mild liquid detergent. Dark pieces inside out.
- 40°C only for durable white or light cotton, when the label allows it. Heat fades colour and can shrink.
Dry
- Air dry. Reshape while damp.
- Avoid hot tumble drying.
Finish
- Cotton loves steam.
- Iron from the reverse when the surface, dye or finish matters.
Linen
Linen gets softer and more beautiful with every wash. Its creases are part of the fabric — let them be.
Wash
- 30°C, gentle cycle, about 600 rpm. Hand wash knitted linen.
- Mild liquid detergent, similar colours. Dark pieces inside out.
- No bleach. No fabric softener — it coats the fibre.
Dry
- Never tumble dry — linen shrinks and the fibre gets brittle.
- Shake out, reshape and hang. Knitted linen dries flat.
- Away from strong sun if the colour matters.
Finish
- Iron while still slightly damp, from the reverse for dark colours.
- Or don't iron at all. Steam relaxes the worst creases.
Linen can shrink a little in the first wash. That is why we never wash it hot.
Hemp
Hemp is exceptionally durable and gets softer with wear and washing. High heat is never needed.
Wash
- Cold to 30°C, hand wash or gentle cycle, 600–800 rpm.
- Mild liquid detergent. No chlorine bleach.
- Don't scrub.
Dry
- Line dry or air dry.
- Avoid hot tumble drying.
Finish
- Iron from the reverse.
- Hemp presses best while slightly damp. Steam works too.
Denim
Denim becomes yours through wear. Fading, creases and changes in the surface are its life. It does not need constant washing.
When
- When it is genuinely dirty — about every 8–10 wears is a good start.
- Raw denim: much less often, depending on how you want it to evolve.
Wash
- Completely inside out. Zip and buttons closed.
- Cold to 30°C, gentle cycle, 600–800 rpm, a little mild detergent.
- Dark and raw denim: wash separately the first times — the dye moves.
Dry
- Never tumble dry if you want to keep colour and fit.
- Hang or lay flat, inside out, away from strong sun.
Raw denim: expect colour transfer and expect it to change. Don't try to keep it looking new.
Silk
Silk is strong for something that feels so fragile, but it dislikes harsh chemistry, friction and careless stain removal. Some silks, dyes and finishes must be professionally cleaned.
Wash
- Hand wash in cold to 30°C water with a pH-neutral, enzyme-free detergent for silk or wool.
- Submerge, move gently for a few minutes, rinse. Don't scrub, soak or wring.
- Machine only if the label allows: laundry bag, silk programme, cold–30°C, lowest spin.
Dry
- Press out water between towels.
- Air dry away from direct sun.
- Never tumble dry.
Finish
- Steam gently, or iron on low from the reverse.
- Very fine silk: use a clean pressing cloth.
Take care
- Don't dab a stain with water — water can leave marks on some silks.
- Let perfume and deodorant dry before dressing. Never spray perfume directly onto silk.
- Sweat yellows silk over time. Air it after each wear.
Viscose
Viscose becomes much weaker when wet. Support it — never pull or stretch it while it is wet.
Wash
- Only if the label allows: 20–30°C, hand wash or delicate cycle, 400–600 rpm.
- Mild liquid detergent. Delicate pieces in a laundry bag.
- Don't wring.
Dry
- Take out straight away and reshape gently while damp.
- Support the weight. Dry flat or on a padded hanger.
Finish
- Steam brings back the fluid fall of the fabric.
- If needed, iron low to medium from the reverse.
Viscose can shrink if washed too warm or dried with heat.
Lyocell & Modal
Lyocell and modal are soft, fluid fibres made from wood. Like viscose, they are more fragile wet than dry.
Wash
- 30°C, delicate cycle or hand wash, 400–600 rpm.
- Mild liquid detergent. Inside out, in a laundry bag for fine pieces.
- No bleach. No fabric softener.
Dry
- Never tumble dry.
- Reshape while damp. Dry flat or hang on a padded hanger.
Finish
- Steam, or iron low to medium from the reverse.
- Avoid sharp creases while wet — they can mark the surface.
Cupro
Cupro — including Bemberg™ — should be treated as the specific fabric, not just the fibre. Some cupro is made for home washing, some is not.
Wash
- If permitted: 20–30°C, hand wash or very delicate cycle, 400–600 rpm.
- Mild liquid detergent. Don't scrub or wring.
Dry
- Support the garment while wet. Reshape straight away.
- Air dry. No tumble drying unless the label allows it.
Finish
- Cupro responds beautifully to careful steaming.
- Iron low to medium from the reverse if needed.
Pleated, structured or specially finished cupro is best professionally cleaned.
Merino wool
Wool rarely needs washing. It resists odour naturally and recovers remarkably well when simply aired.
First choice
- Air it overnight.
- Steam lightly.
- Spot clean small marks instead of washing the whole piece.
Wash
- Machine only if labelled: 30°C wool cycle, 400–600 rpm.
- Hand wash: dissolve wool detergent in 30°C water, submerge, rest 5–10 minutes, move gently. Rinse in water of the same temperature.
- Neutral wool detergent only. Never enzyme (bio) detergent, bleach or softener.
- Never scrub, twist or wring.
Dry
- Press out water, roll in a towel.
- Reshape to its original measurements and dry completely flat.
- Never hang wet knitwear. Never on a radiator. No tumble dryer unless the label says so.
Cashmere
Cashmere responds best to very little intervention. Airing and resting between wears is often enough.
Wash
- We prefer hand washing: 20–30°C water and a very small amount of cashmere or wool detergent.
- Soak briefly and move gently through the water.
- Never rub the fabric against itself. Never wring.
Dry
- Roll carefully in a towel.
- Reshape and dry flat.
Pilling
- Some pilling is natural where the garment meets friction.
- Remove pills by hand or with a cashmere comb. Don't shave the surface aggressively.
Hand-knitted & dense wool
Hand knitting is not ordinary knitwear. A wet hand-knit is heavy, and its own weight can pull it out of shape.
Wash
- Hand wash only, unless the piece says otherwise.
- About 30°C, neutral wool detergent, minimal movement.
- Don't leave it soaking. Don't twist or wring.
Dry
- Lift the whole piece out supported — never by one end.
- Press gently between towels.
- Lay completely flat and ease it back to its measurements and silhouette.
- Let it dry naturally. Never hang a wet hand-knit.
Leather
Leather is not a textile. Its creases, depth of colour and patina are part of the material.
Never
- Machine wash or soak.
- Tumble dry, hairdryer or radiator.
- Rub a stain hard.
Everyday
- Remove dust with a soft, clean cloth or brush.
- Smooth leather: lift minor dirt with a barely damp cloth.
- Caught in the rain: blot, then let it dry naturally at room temperature, away from heat and sun.
Conditioning
- Only products made for that exact type of leather.
- Test first in a hidden place.
- Use sparingly — leather should never be saturated.
Horse leather
- Let it develop naturally. Creases, polish and surface variation are not damage.
- Avoid over-conditioning. It should still feel like leather, not like a coated surface.
For substantial stains or valuable leather garments, go to a leather specialist — not an ordinary dry cleaner.
Suede & nubuck
Suede and nubuck are open-surface leathers. They need their own tools.
Before wearing
- Treat with a protective spray made for suede and nubuck. Test in a hidden place first.
Everyday
- Brush with a suede brush, following the nap.
- Never use smooth-leather creams.
If wet
- Blot, let it dry naturally, then brush the nap back up.
- Never dry with heat.
Shoes
Shoes last longest when they get to rest.
Every day
- Give a pair 24 hours between wears so the leather can dry out.
- Use shoe trees — cedar if you can. They hold the shape and absorb moisture.
- Use a shoehorn to protect the heel.
If wet
- Stuff with paper, change it when damp.
- Dry slowly at room temperature, never by a radiator.
Care
- Brush off dust and dirt after wearing.
- Condition smooth leather now and then with a product made for it.
- Suede: see Suede & nubuck.
Bags & small leather goods
A bag keeps its shape when it is stored the way it was made.
Storage
- Stuff with tissue paper and keep it in its dust bag.
- Store it upright, never crushed under other things.
- Don't hang a bag by its handle for long periods.
Wire-frame bags
- Some of our bags have a hidden wire frame. Never press it flat or fold it to store.
- If it loses its line, ease it gently back by hand.
Care
- Wipe with a soft dry cloth.
- Keep away from heat and long periods of direct sun.
- Empty pockets — pens and keys mark leather from the inside.
Garments
Construction matters as much as fibre. Always treat a garment by its most delicate part.
T-shirts & jersey
Treat a precious T-shirt differently from underwear. Fine jersey, hand finishes, prints and oversized silhouettes all benefit from less mechanical stress.
Wash
- Inside out, ideally in a laundry bag.
- 20–30°C, delicate cycle, about 600 rpm, short programme.
- Mild liquid detergent, similar colours. No bleach, no softener.
Dry
- No tumble dryer unless the label allows it.
- Reshape straight after washing.
- Dry flat or hang carefully, depending on the weight.
Prints & special surfaces
- Never iron over prints, foil, transfers, rubber or embellishment.
- Steam from the reverse.
Shirts & blouses
Wash
- Only as warm as necessary — 30°C for fine cotton.
- Silk, cupro, viscose, lyocell: see Materials.
- Unbutton first. Dark shirts inside out.
- Don't scrub collars and cuffs.
Finish
- Steam or press while slightly damp for the cleanest finish.
Dresses
Dresses often combine delicate fabric with construction that distorts easily.
Care
- Support bias-cut silk, draped viscose, cupro and fine jersey carefully when wet.
- Never hang a heavy wet dress by its shoulders.
- For complex dresses, follow the care of the most delicate part.
Sweaters & knitwear
The greatest danger to knitwear isn't water. It is heat + friction + weight while wet.
Care
- Wool or delicate programme only when permitted.
- Minimal movement. Never wring.
- Reshape after washing and dry flat.
- Store folded. Heavy knitwear stretches on a hanger.
Trousers, shorts & skirts
Care
- Empty pockets. Close zips and fastenings.
- Dark pieces inside out.
- Wash according to fibre and construction.
- Tailored wool trousers and structured skirts may need professional cleaning, even if the fibre could be washed.
- Hang woven trousers after wearing and let creases and moisture release naturally.
Blazers
The fabric is only one part of a blazer. Inside are canvas, interfacing, shoulder construction, lining and tapes — and they react differently to water.
Care
- Never machine wash a structured blazer unless the label says so.
- Air after wearing. Brush gently. Steam lightly.
- Spot clean where you can.
- Professional cleaning only when truly needed — repeated dry cleaning is not a substitute for everyday care.
Jackets & coats
Begin with the most sensitive part. A cotton coat with cupro lining and structured interfacing is treated by its whole construction — not just its outer fabric.
Care
- Air regularly. Brush wool coats.
- Remove surface dirt before it settles in.
- Steam rather than clean.
- Structured pieces to a professional cleaner when the label says so. Leather to a leather specialist.
Atelier pieces
Some of what we make doesn't exist anywhere else. Neither does its care.
Wire-framed pieces
Fine wire is set into the edge of some of our pieces — a collar, a hem, the line of a skirt — so the silhouette holds wherever you bend it.
Wash
- Hand wash, cool water, unless the label says otherwise.
- No machine, no spin — the wire can kink.
- Never twist or wring.
Dry
- Press out water between towels.
- Ease the wire back to a soft, natural line before it dries.
- Dry flat. Never tumble dry.
Shape
- Bend it gently, and play — that is what it is for.
- Avoid folding sharply at the same point again and again.
- Never iron over the wire. Steam around it.
Hand-painted & hand-printed
Painted and printed by hand in the atelier. Every piece is a little different.
Care
- Spot clean or hand wash cold, inside out.
- No soaking, no scrubbing over the paint.
- Never iron directly over painted or printed areas — steam from the reverse.
- Dry flat or hang, away from direct sun.
Distressed & raw edges
Raw edges and distressing are intended. They will keep softening and fraying as you wear them — that is the piece coming alive.
Care
- Wash in a laundry bag to control the fraying.
- Gentle cycle, 30°C or cooler.
- If a loose thread bothers you, trim it carefully — never pull it.
The Risk signature
The label on the back of your piece is stitched in and cut open by hand — the last signature before it leaves the design table.
Care
- The cut edges will soften and fray slowly. That is intended.
- Don't trim or seal them.
- Wash as the rest of the garment.
Back to black
Black fades. That is part of its life. But if you miss the depth of the original colour, you can bring it back — we do it ourselves.
How
- Use a machine dye for black made for natural fibres. Follow its instructions exactly.
- Dye the piece alone, then run an empty hot cycle to clean the machine.
- Works on cotton, linen, hemp, viscose and lyocell.
Not for
- Wool, cashmere, silk or leather.
- Pieces with prints, paint, foil, wire or special finishes.
Stitching is often polyester and stays lighter than the fabric — many people love that. If you're unsure, ask us first.
Repairs
We would rather mend than replace. If a seam opens, a button is lost or a piece needs more than this guide can give, contact us at customercare@nellyjohansson.com and we'll tell you what can be done.
Stains, cleaning & storage
Stains
Speed matters. Aggression does not.
Do
- Blot. Don't rub.
- Act quickly with cold water — except on silk.
- For a significant stain, leave it and take the piece to a specialist.
Never
- Scrub an unknown stain deeper into a valuable fabric.
- Experiment with bleach, acetone, alcohol, stain pens or household chemicals.
Tell the cleaner
- What caused the stain.
- When it happened.
- Anything already used on it.
The dry cleaner
Not all dry cleaners are equal. For an important piece, choose one experienced with designer clothing, tailoring, silk, leather and unusual materials.
Tell them
- About any stains, before cleaning.
- About leather trims, unusual buttons, hardware, handwork, coatings and delicate surfaces.
Ask them
- To keep the original silhouette and pressing.
- Not to add creases or sharp lines that weren't there.
- For restrained hand finishing rather than heavy pressing.
After
- Remove the plastic and let the garment breathe.
Storage
Clothes need space.
Hang
- Tailoring and coats on broad, shaped hangers.
- Never compress valuable garments.
Fold
- Heavy knitwear, folded, never hung.
Protect
- Store clean and completely dry.
- Keep silk and leather out of prolonged direct sun.
- No long-term storage in dry-cleaning plastic — use breathable cotton covers.
Moths
Moths love wool, cashmere and silk — especially when they carry traces of wear.
Prevent
- Clean pieces before storing them for a season.
- Cedar or lavender in drawers and wardrobes. Refresh cedar with light sanding.
- Air and move stored pieces regularly — moths dislike disturbance and light.
If you find them
- Wash or clean everything nearby.
- Freezing a sealed piece for a few days also helps.
If in doubt
Do less.
Air it. Steam it. Brush it. Spot clean it.
The purpose of care is not to keep a garment untouched. It is to let it be worn for as long as possible.


